Ride report: Going Dutch Day 1 – not Dutch at all

We started our Dutch adventure on familiar ground, or rather sea, by taking the ferry to Dunkirk.

Readers of our Belgium Battlefields tour will recognise the first part of our trip to the Netherlands. On that occasion we also used the DFDS service from Dover to Dunkirk. It’s an easy trip and relatively simple for travellers by bike.

After navigating your way through the terminal checks you roll up at the front of the queue and are boarded first. First on, first off, having secured your bikes for the trip to suitable deck furniture. All you need to brace for is the price gouging on board – not a complaint so much as a warning.

This simple procedure was slightly hampered for us as we shivered in the cold wind gusting across the terminal. Amusement at DaveS stumbling off his bike was added to when JR caught his leg on his saddle bag while dismounting and ended up on the floor!

Tunnel vision

By the way, there is an alternative to ferry travel in the shape of Folkestone to Calais via the Channel Tunnel with bikes. It is much quicker but it only goes at 08:00 and 14:00 and is a dedicated minibus + bikes service. More importantly you are similarly restricted to timings on the return journey.

On this occasion we would also be an extra 20+ miles from Dunkirk, let alone our destination for the day. The service is on my list to try when our direction of travel is more appropriate.

As it was, we were sailing on the 10:00 ferry which meant a 13:00 arrival after taking time differences into account. Its an easy way to cross the Channel that’s for sure. We actually left late but I think we made up time on the crossing as we managed to get riding at 13:20.

De Panne via Dunkirk

Compared to our last exit from Dunkirk, things were a lot simpler this time.

We are becoming veterans at this sort of thing and quickly turned off to head round past the Total oil refinery and tank farms. It gets you away from most of the ferry traffic but the roads are still relatively exposed to wind and large trucks, albeit much quieter.

I think I can find a better route through the dunes but have not yet done so.

Our first target of the day, De Panne on the North Sea coast in Belgium is about 25 miles away. The slightly meandering route took us past the Dunkirk beaches and Museum dedicated to Operation Dynamo, the 1940 evacuation. It gave Mark the buzz of seeing a gun!

Knowing we would have limited time for riding with the lunchtime arrival of the ferry, the plan was that De Panne gave us the option of taking a train to our destination for the night, Ghent.

Ghent is reachable with enough time, either across country (which I felt didn’t give us many bail out options) or via Ostend and Bruges but would be a big day at nearly 85 miles.

On to Ostend

In the end, we had a nice tailwind so opted to continue from De Panne toward Ostend which adds another 20 miles or so. Knowing we were unlikely to have time to ride further on this occasion helped our decision making!

Unfortunately, JR was suffering with a knee strain from his earlier tumble while back at the ferry terminal. No so funny now. Erring on the side of caution, he opted for the train at De Panne. The rest of us pressed on.

I found the extra distance worthwhile, again helped by the tailwind which meant a relatively leisurely effort for us. I also really enjoy riding in Flanders because Belgium drivers are so incredibly disciplined and considerate around cyclists, which makes things a lot more relaxed.

Despite a stop for photos at the Raversijde gun emplacements we managed to roll up to the railway station in Ostend around 5:00pm with about 15 minutes to spare for the next train to Ghent. It costs about £9 and takes 40 minutes or so, using carriages specifically built for cycles and the service worked perfectly!

We reach Ghent

All that remained was a magical mystery tour round the rather lovely town of Ghent looking for our hotel and a rendezvous with JR.

The Hotel – Charme Hotel Hancelot – was comfortable and rather grand with secure off-street parking that was perfect for us.

The only issue I had turning up late in the day was it left little time to explore Ghent, which looks worth a return visit with my wife in the future. We did find a modest but decent Italian restaurant though where we replenished our carbohydrate levels in more ways than one.

In summary, at the end of Day 1 we:

• Were not yet in the Netherlands
• Had a rider with a possibly problematic leg injury
• Had only ridden about 50 miles
• Successfully managed the basics – good food and wine!

Personally speaking, I was being as careful as I could to manage my neck which was feeling a little crunchy.

I made sure to do my exercises that evening but on the whole I didn’t feel too bad. My Cannondale Topstone reached over 9000 miles ridden today and its familiarity was much appreciated. Pannier packing this time round was much more considered and lighter than our battlefields trip.

All this was boding well for me at least, but what would the next day bring?